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First ever attempt at repairing a Dalas type RTC battery today. ;)

Caluser2000

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As per the title. I generally stay clear of any mobo with Dallas RTC brick type batteries but over the years aquire a couple of Socket 7 mobos over the last 30 years or so. One had a removable one the other was soldered to the modo. I had a few spares in case I decided to do the mod and around five or so coil cell battery holders I'd stiped off mobos practicing component removal/fitting. The process went something like this.

RTFM-For reference I used a hand down sketch that has been on the ps2mafia site for ever.

Decide what tools to use- Ozoto rotorty too with sharp tapered metel grinding bit, soldering iron along with flux, solder, wash sponge, craft knife etc..

Lengths of suitable wire, Dallas battery brick to be operated on and coin cell battery holder.

Time is your friend.

Not overthinking the process...This is very important.



As they say pictures say more than a thousand words here goes :


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It really was a piece of piss. I elected to pull most of the plastic top cover side and potting compound therein to to expose the three center pins and the side of the circuit board the holds the battery and clock crystal. This made breaking the neg contact to the battery and soldering on the wires on to the positive contact a lot easier. I bent the two contacts horizontally on the coin cell battery holder, so they sit flat on top od the Dallas brick soldered the wires to these (extra length is for stress relief and possible repairs in future., fitted a coil cell battery that held enough charge to allow the system to hold its Bios settings when it is turned off. Secured the coin cell battery holder and battery on to the top of the Dallas brick using black silicone sealant. A little masking tape help to hold it down untill the sealant sets. I've left the side of the Dallas open but you can pot it with sillicon sealent if you need to.

The next post I make in this thread will be doing this with the Dallas brick still attached to the mobo..........
 
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The first one I did also took me 2 hours or so and lots of different tools. Now I can do these in 15 mins with only a sharp knife. Once you know where the important stuff is inside, it gets much easier. :)
 
Good job tbh. Having done a few of these, no matter what you do always a pain. Is that a socket 7 VX board?
 
Never had any issues what so ever. As Timo W. once you know what you are doing it is a very simple task and doesn't take long at all at all. Mind over matter really.
 
I did my first one last week, went just fine - used a drill press and finished with a hand file. Of course after the battery mod was done I managed to snap off the IRQ# pin by trying to force it into my pin straightening tool...

I still hate the concept. I'm only going to use the modified one as a temporary fix until my next digikey order.
 
I've done them on-the-PCB in tight spaces. A small bit in a Foredom handset does it for me. I like to cover over the patch with black epoxy filler. Makes it look a little better.
 
Good job tbh. Having done a few of these, no matter what you do always a pain. Is that a socket 7 VX board?
Yeah it tis...

Has a Pentium 166(non-mmx) and 62megs im 4x 16meg 72 pin simms.

Playing around with it at the moment with a 2gig hdd I have no idea where it came from. Looks like win 3.x was installed at one time but has IBM PC Dos 5.02 installed, as the primary OS. Some Dos programs including a CAD program are working as is SI. Some other Dos programs had been installed like XtreeGold but don't work for some unknown reason. It's really fucked up. Time for a purge......
 
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Been slowly bringing back a few socket 7 machines myself. Most likely will sell most them, I want older stuff. Almost finished with a Dell XPS 166 and a Packard bell 166. 64mb is the sweet spot for this chipset. (y)

Have another 6 or so I have to go thru and get perfect. Should have at least 10 machines up for sale soon 486-p1 non mmx. Gotta raise back my hobby slush fund! Hoping to find a mini computer soon... =)
 
I've done them on-the-PCB in tight spaces. A small bit in a Foredom handset does it for me. I like to cover over the patch with black epoxy filler. Makes it look a little better.
I've used UV resin to reseal them when I've done the Dallas chips. instant curing but be careful that no eeproms are around without the window covers when you use the UV lamp to cure the resin
 
Good idea about the resin! Never thought about that. At one time I wanted to try JB Weld , but figured it be conductive since its steel re-enforced.
 
Auto body filler with black acrylic lacqer in it will set pretty quickly. Black Harrerite paint or similar should work as well.
 
Good idea about the resin! Never thought about that. At one time I wanted to try JB Weld , but figured it be conductive since its steel re-enforced.
Only way to tell is to make up a small bead of JB and let it cure then check it with an ohmmeter but then you are only filling the two separated voids shouldn't be an issue for conduction otherwise the solder to the two points would pose a risk
 
Or even butyl rubber sealant (as used on car winshields). Thinking about it, I might even prefer that something like the "liquid electrical tape" might ultimately be best--it seals but can be easly removed. Just don't use silicone that employs an acid (smells a bit like vinegar) cure.
 
I just dumped a pile of cyanoacrylate in there

Don't have the patience required for the curing times of much else
 
Or even butyl rubber sealant (as used on car winshields). Thinking about it, I might even prefer that something like the "liquid electrical tape" might ultimately be best--it seals but can be easly removed. Just don't use silicone that employs an acid (smells a bit like vinegar) cure.

Like Plasti-Dip? And I always have that around, as well as rust converter. Good Idea!
 
I just dumped a pile of cyanoacrylate in there

Don't have the patience required for the curing times of much else
throw some baking soda on the CA glue while it's wet and it will not only cure instantly but will fill in the void like plastic. I use that all the time to repair broken insert posts on laptops and on some plastic parts in printers.
 
throw some baking soda on the CA glue while it's wet and it will not only cure instantly but will fill in the void like plastic. I use that all the time to repair broken insert posts on laptops and on some plastic parts in printers.
I have also used that trick on plastic posts to good effect, good call about using it on voids as well
 
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