• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

Paint Color for PC/XT case ??

That's because you can not convert Pantone colors to RGB. RGB does not describe absolute colors, just the relative balance between red, blue, and green, which a monitor then renders "somehow" based on what the manufacturer thinks looks best. Also, RGB is an additive color model and only works for devices emitting light. If at all, you can convert Pantone to CMYK, but that won't help you much, since your monitor stays at RGB and the sRGB colorspace is very limited anyway.

fair enough, but its still confusing.
 
That makes sense I suppose, still confusing that they use different codes and the colours look different.
 
I've been watching a lot of power tool and tonka truck restoration videos recently, and I think most PCs are powder coated. I've seen a few videos where power tools were powder coated to a similar or the same sort of texture as vintage PCs and compatibles have. I think it's a part of the chemical makeup of the paint that causes it to dry that way.

The IBM color per that forum posted as Pantone 413 U. I thing my songcheer XT case on my 486 is a similar color.
 
Just a note that may be of interest to others. After considering the hardness issue of latex and examining the paint on some other projects I have done in the past, I decided to try out this latex paint hardener from Crown. You can get it direct or have it shipped to a Home Depot. When it comes in I will do some tests both with and without the hardener added. The final cure is 7 - 14 days, so I will update once I have some results in a few weeks.
View attachment 62164

Please do update us. I am interested to hear if you can get the same feel and hardness as the original paint...
 
Just got a matt rattle can of cellulose 413U paint.

Its colour is a reasonable match, it has that 'greenish' colour but its looking lighter than the original, but that might be because the original paint is so dirty.

No pictures until I have completed, but the case will need a full rub down due to the damage and will have to lose the speckled effect or it will look daft. Haven't managed to find a way to replicate it, but as its matt, an initial test spray actually looks fine.
 
All done

Not been able to recreate the finish and the pictures don't do justice to the colour as the LED lighting is too white, but I am happy

20200804_202906_001.jpg

20200804_202924.jpg

Not too bad to say it was badly smashed.
 
Nice job! You may want to take some picture in natural light to better illustrate the color if the LED lights are not working for you.

How does it feel to the touch?
 
Its smoother. It was either that, or a great big smooth patch on the side which stood out like a sore thumb. The full matt paint goes a long way to making it look ok.

Sorry, I wasn't very clear. I am not talking about the orange peel. I am talking about the general feel of the paint. The original paint is "slick" for the lack of a better word. Hand slides over it. I feel like the latex paints, even when I spray with a gun, tend to be "rough". I am wondering if the paint in the can or mixing it with the hardener made any difference.
 
Hum, get what you mean. Despite the bumps, the original is almost 'slippy'. This feels more 'matt'. I have used cellulose paint and you cant get it mixed with different Matt levels, so that might help. I have also found some Stone Effect spray paint that looks as if it will produce the same texture, but to be honest it looks fine as it is.
 
One of the old-time rattle-can "bumpy finishes was to use auto trunk spatter paint as a base coat, followed by ordinary gloss paint. Gives a nice effect, but I really miss the old enamel wrinkle finish that was used electronic gear. Now, it seems to be restricted to auto valve covers.
 
Sorry to be so pedantic, but I also build scale models, and the mis-spelling is driving me nuts.

The finish is properly called matte, not matt.

I'll go away now... ;)
 
Hum, get what you mean. Despite the bumps, the original is almost 'slippy'. This feels more 'matt'. I have used cellulose paint and you cant get it mixed with different Matt levels, so that might help. I have also found some Stone Effect spray paint that looks as if it will produce the same texture, but to be honest it looks fine as it is.

Just noted, I meant CAN get it mixed with different matt (matte/sp US !) levels

Will probably try the stone effect once I have fixed my MZ80K and fired up the PDP 11/73 and managed to get my Multibus to boot to the monitor and and and ....
 
First, there is a misspelling of misspelling.
Then "its" in used in place of "it's".
I've just been driven nuts twice.

;)

I be just a simple enjineer and apostrophes have always been and will remain, a mystery to me.

It's (!) still spelt colour though !!!
 
And now onto the monitor.

Noticed that the monitor case once cleaned is the same colour as the paint I used on the case. Can't quite remember in 'the day' if they were meant to be ?

Anyway, removed all the stickers with my SMD hot air gun and the case is getting a blow over to remove some ugly marks. The bezel though is going to be a pain. Will need to mask off the two tone bit and I have never really been successful as masking things.
 
Hate to necro, but didn't want to start a new thread. How has the paint held up over a couple years? I'm middle of a 5160 restore, and have a few rust pocks, as well as a weird spot on the side a security mount was glued. Sadly it pulled up the paint with it. Will get pictures tomorrow, but curious how everyone's different paint has held up and if its faded some over time. And if someone is local (US, perfer Midwest), would you be willing to sell a tiny jar of it. I don't need a whole pint, maybe a testers hobby tiny paint jar worth.
 
Back
Top