Toshiba 110cs Rip...

[Wappynutter]

Thanks for the pin out Thermalwrong, been looking for that.
So following that diagram I am correct with 3 no connects, pins 12 and 13 on the lower left, pin 33 lower right. Pins 30 and 23 lower right are ground and pin 22 lower left is power in. Pin 30 was my concern but this confirms.
Just that resistor pack now. Gonna check all resistor packs and single resistors again as I shorted a resistor pack earlier and caused a resistor topside to get hot and the machine to halt again and everything to stay cold.


Cleared the short and it's back to the half boot, cpu and big chips warming but still no full boot to display and bios, no beeps. Codes displayed still are 00, ff, 00, ff.... and stop.
I'll get back to checking soon, away for the bank holiday weekend.
Thanks again Thermalwrong, appreciated.

 

[Thermalwrong]

I got my spare 430CDT mainboard out since I was just repairing a broken 430CDT laptop and wanted to check the circuitry That connection you've marked as orange on your picture is just not routed, it's a spare on the resistor pack


I had some success with today's repair! It only took many hours and 9 patched traces, but it's the first Satellite Pro 420/430 board that I've been able to repair. There was a clock generator trace going into the northbridge that probably stopped the laptop working entirely. It gave no codes when I first tested it.
That patch wire is run through where the RTC battery connector used to be. Also found out there are at least 8 connections going between the IO controller gate array (PEGGY3) which I think is equivalent to an embedded controller, to the Toshiba 187HP keyboard controller - those were all toast and it required some creative routing to get from one side of the board to the other.

I know other folks have had keyboard controller issues with the 400 / 430 laptops so I'll see if my info can help them, it was all traced out in paint.net with a picture of the front and back of a 430CDT mainboard.


Since you're back to 00/FF, was it just that resistor pack or was anything else involved like hot air reflow? It's scary when you're back to getting no codes but hopefully you can find it, usually when that happens to me it's a short I couldn't see on one of the QFPs or a resistor got removed while soldering something else. It only takes one solder bridge to break everything, not permanently though, usually things start working again after it's cleared.
Also that one time I used hot air to remove the keyboard connector and because the board wasn't in a fixture, it flexed and loads of pins got loose on the QFP VGA chip on the other side (T2130CT), now I'll only use low melt solder to remove parts from working boards.

 

[Thermalwrong]

I got my spare 430CDT mainboard out since I was just repairing a broken 430CDT laptop and wanted to check the circuitry That connection you've marked as orange on your picture is just not routed, it's a spare on the resistor pack

View attachment 1307178View attachment 1307179
I had some success with today's repair! It only took many hours and 9 patched traces, but it's the first Satellite Pro 420/430 board that I've been able to repair. There was a clock generator trace going into the northbridge that probably stopped the laptop working entirely. It gave no codes when I first tested it.
That patch wire is run through where the RTC battery connector used to be. Also found out there are at least 8 connections going between the IO controller gate array (PEGGY3) which I think is equivalent to an embedded controller, to the Toshiba 187HP keyboard controller - those were all toast and it required some creative routing to get from one side of the board to the other.
View attachment 1307180View attachment 1307181
I know other folks have had keyboard controller issues with the 400 / 430 laptops so I'll see if my info can help them, it was all traced out in paint.net with a picture of the front and back of a 430CDT mainboard.


Since you're back to 00/FF, was it just that resistor pack or was anything else involved like hot air reflow? It's scary when you're back to getting no codes but hopefully you can find it, usually when that happens to me it's a short I couldn't see on one of the QFPs or a resistor got removed while soldering something else. It only takes one solder bridge to break everything, not permanently though, usually things start working again after it's cleared.
Also that one time I used hot air to remove the keyboard connector and because the board wasn't in a fixture, it flexed and loads of pins got loose on the QFP VGA chip on the other side (T2130CT), now I'll only use low melt solder to remove parts from working boards.

Eh, and now it's back to not posting, got to figure out which via broke now I'm also back to 00/FF
That's after sitting for a few days after sealing it all back up and covering up the patched traces. I wonder if it's a new bad VIA or the patch wires got crossed or fell off somehow?

 

[Wappynutter]

Eh, and now it's back to not posting, got to figure out which via broke now I'm also back to 00/FF
That's after sitting for a few days after sealing it all back up and covering up the patched traces. I wonder if it's a new bad VIA or the patch wires got crossed or fell off somehow?

Oh no, damn. I feel your frustration as this is exactly my routine apart from it's been about a year since it last displayed.
I started with damage in the exact same area as this board of yours.



Luckily I only had to clear out the vias, flood some solder in or dropped a wire through and soldered to the broken trace to get contact. I check continuity regularly and confirm they still get to and from there points of contact. Again I was lucky that my clock signal via is intact and connects through the board to that second pin on the bottom left of the large ic.
After your last comment, (thanks for the info regarding that spare no connect resistor on the pack, appreciated), I checked some pins and managed to move one free. I reflowed a bunch of pins as a precaution but alas still no joy.
Continued to poke all pins on the large ic's on the rear checking for loose ones but discovered no more. Gonna recheck the cpu clock pins and halt pin to see what I get maybe. The only ic I can see not getting warm is the one near the main battery connector but I'm guessing that controls battery management and utilises the other power chips on the board for charge circuit etc..
I'm hoping you continue to share your progress with us here or provide a link if you document your repair on Vogons.
I can maybe then just play "follow the leader" and mimic your repairs.
Once again, appreciate your time and knowledge sharing here, thanks again.