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Midwest WTB: Apple IIgs monitor cable and keyboard ADB cable.

Covers: North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Minesota, Iowa, Missouri, Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, Indiana and Ohio
T

tblake05

Experienced Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
295
Location
Minnesota
Need the one from the IIgs to the matching monitor as well as from the gs to the keyboard.

Anyone have any for sale? I can paypal or snail mail a check with a prepaid UPS return label. Just cash the check, box up, and drop off at UPS store.

Thanks!!

~Tim
 
I don't know if I have any extras or not. I'll have to poke around the junk pile.

You can use an s-video cable in place of the ADB cable. The monitor cable is harder to substitute for.

I am pretty sure I have a monitor cable that I don't need *if I can find it*. The shop is in the midst of a rejiggering and all my loot is boxed up and piled unlabeled. I don't know if I have an ADB cable to spare or not. Probably yes.

I'll try to remember to dig around a little tomorrow. Nag me about it if I forget and nobody else offers you one in the meantime. :p
 
If bladamson cannot find theirs, I'm pretty sure that I could locate the monitor cable you need, by this weekend. Let me know how it goes.
 
bladamson said:
I don't know if I have any extras or not. I'll have to poke around the junk pile.

You can use an s-video cable in place of the ADB cable. The monitor cable is harder to substitute for.

I am pretty sure I have a monitor cable that I don't need *if I can find it*. The shop is in the midst of a rejiggering and all my loot is boxed up and piled unlabeled. I don't know if I have an ADB cable to spare or not. Probably yes.

I'll try to remember to dig around a little tomorrow. Nag me about it if I forget and nobody else offers you one in the meantime. :p
Click to expand...

Juror22 said:
If bladamson cannot find theirs, I'm pretty sure that I could locate the monitor cable you need, by this weekend. Let me know how it goes.
Click to expand...

Hey Gents! Any luck? I’m putting the final pieces together for my IIgs. Monitor showed up today and keyboard on Saturday. Super excited to hook it all up and see if it works before a thorough cleaning and retro-bright.
 
Are you going with the old school retrobrite or new way? Aka brushing it on or diluting into water. I've been testing some different ways on keyboard keys. So far best I have managed is just plain tap water and a sealed jar. Downside its been around a month and finally back to original color. But seems to have worked better then all the other methods I have tried... Keep in mind I have city water, so heavily chlorinated. Next test is a UV chamber. Scored some uv sanatizing wands for a dollar each, going to use 6 of them in a foil lined box.
 
twolazy said:
Are you going with the old school retrobrite or new way? Aka brushing it on or diluting into water. I've been testing some different ways on keyboard keys. So far best I have managed is just plain tap water and a sealed jar. Downside its been around a month and finally back to original color. But seems to have worked better then all the other methods I have tried... Keep in mind I have city water, so heavily chlorinated. Next test is a UV chamber. Scored some uv sanatizing wands for a dollar each, going to use 6 of them in a foil lined box.
Click to expand...

I haven't decided really. Thinking probably submerge what I can in hydrogen peroxide and leave in the sun. The monitor I'll more than likely brush on and wrap in collophane.

Hadn't heard that water can be used? That's intriguing.. Though I have a well, so I doubt my water would work anyway. is it the chlorine in the water that does it? Cause what about submerging the larger parts in like a hot tub, turning it on and leaving it in the sun for a day.... Thoughts?
 
Ya water method is get a big black bin, so it asborbs heat. Wait for a hot day. Then use half to 1 bottle of hair peroxide to 20 gals or so of water in a 30 gal bin. Cover with either a black trash bag or plastic wrap and let it go 3-4-5 hours, Seems to be the new method. Less streaking. Heat seems to work more evenly then UV.

Downside you are still using bleach, so never will be the true shade of whatever color it was. If its something important I would try the method I am working on, get a clear bin and fill it with chlorinated water, and just mix it round once a day. I found it works great just takes forever. Over winter a few buttons took 2 months on the windowsill.

I feel if the object you are trying to de-yellow is uneven, this is most likely the best way.
 
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twolazy said:
Ya water method is get a big black bin, so it asborbs heat. Wait for a hot day. Then use half to 1 bottle of hair peroxide to 20 gals or so of water in a 30 gal bin. Cover with either a black trash bag or plastic wrap and let it go 3-4-5 hours, Seems to be the new method. Less streaking. Heat seems to work more evenly then UV.
Click to expand...

I think maybe I'll try this method. I wonder what the ratio ends up being peroxide to water. Its just an Apple IIgs so its not super rare or anything. No museum piece, just for me to mess around with.
 
Guys, I've been on ebay a little. Both cables can be had from there, but I can't remember if the ADB cable to the keyboard was coiled or not. Think I remember it being not be.
 
PM me and let me know what you think is fair for the IIGS monitor cable. I can send you some pictures if you'd like to confirm what you're getting.
I don't have a II GS ADB cable. (I have one of the GS keyboards though)
I'm guessing shipping for the IIGS Monitor cable would be around $6-7 at most, from my location, using a small box.

As for the Retrobrite discussion - I'm a fan of the soaking Retrobrite method - I personally try to use a tub large enough to soak the item completely filled with mostly 3% Peroxide and some extra water is ok with a teaspoon of OxiClean added. I leave mine out in the sunlight during the day, keep it in the tub covered overnight and take it out the next day. I check on the piece that is being treated against against an un-yellowed area periodically, watch that smaller pieces don't float from bubbles that form, and that the pieces are exposed evenly by checking on them every few hours. When Its done, I rinse it and dry it quickly. What I like best about this method is that there is that I have never had streaks from this method and it works slowly (usually over a period of 3-4 days, so it is very forgiving and I have seldom 'over-exposed' a piece.)

The solution will react with your hands and tissues, so be sure to keep it off of them if possible and wash it off immediately if you get it on you.
 
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