Recent content by Mr.ToR

Just to clarify, the custom analog component is not present on the 1541-II but is present on the short 1541 board and on my internal 1571 of my C128D as seen on the following photos: here is my 1541 board with the custom analog comonent: here is another 1541 I have without the custom analog...

I know of two unrepairable problems with these drives. its either the head corrodes internally and you can not measure any resistance between the head pins then the whole drive becomes a parts donor, and the other fatal failure is the analog custom component going bad then again the whole drive...

Sure, I definitely don't think that's old school. The idea is that we should not forget that this is also possible and is a valid modern solution. I think it's like this; consider for your hobby, if all the examples you're exposed to uses a fluke or keysight handheld multimeters for simple...

By the way, since we're talking about soldering, let me share this... I decided to give the new TS-101 a try. I recently ordered one from AliExpress. Should be receving it in a week or so. The one I ordered comes with a PD33W QC3.0 32W power supply. I believe you can get 65W from the barrel...

Also try to remember if you had to apply any pressure to any chips while removing/desoldering. You either cracked a very flimsy plated through hole or it was already cracked and you only soldered from one side.

Hi, one problem these boards experience, especially after removing chips and attaching sockets or new chips is that the plated through-hole connections between opposide layers develop cracks in the plated through-hole area and you might see that if you press on some of the chips with your...

I totally agree and definitely Dave McMurtrie as well.

yes tiny bit on the tip of the pin where the solder will go, and heat it a bit for the flux to remove the oxidation and make the solder easlity do the proper wetting action with minimal effort when you bring the heat. because any bit of oxidation on the pin will cause problems. you don't want to...

yes exactly :-) flux and tin the pin and wire. cut excess soldered part of the wire to have minimum bare wire to remain after being soldered to the pin, but not too little because no wiggle room might cause a wire to break. have everything ready and stabilized. strongly wish not to melt the...

That's almost exactly what I did actually. The only difference being I always use flux and constantly clean the tip with tip cleaning wire to avoid oxidation and burned flux then clean everthing else with IPA+electric toothbrush+napkins. So I was almost sure that I would not be melting the...

Thnx. Same here :-) I initially wired to a wrong pin then melted a connector trying to fix the misteke. You have to solder them in a single swift action as if thats even possible :LOL: Same with DB9 and D-Sub 15 etc..

Yea I know. Some have +24 some have -5 some have AC some have unheard of voltages... I have them too. There isn't a standard to what the plug and pins will be though. Anyways, here is the dongle version: The dongle works well but looks really bad in my opinion. I guess it's nice to...

You're absolutely right. The idea is ofcourse not trying to find the jankiest power supply. The idea is actually avoiding having to get a custom made power supply and pay a premium for it, or even better not having to mod the old brick upto modern standards. I think any decent 2A/12V will be...

I'll make the following dongle for my second 1541-II tomorrow.

Well that certainly could be done. In my experience you really have to love the DIN connector to tolerate it. 1541-II/1581, C64, C128, Amiga, and more all use some sort of currently-not-so-common DIN connector for their power supplies. I think for power supplies there really is no reason to...