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Need advice on paint stripper that is safe on plastic. Need to fix what a hack ruined

Don't ever put stuff like Seafoam in an engine. You were warned.

Don't want to derail the thread, but if you have issues related to built up gunk in an engine that wadn't maintained properly, start using Pennzoil or a part/full synthetic rated for high mileage. A few hundred miles before an oil change put up to half a bottle of marvel mystery oil. And that's it.
 
tipc, drop me a PM or line off-list. I've got some of the Seafoam injection as well as add-to-your oil varieties and have been debating about using it on my 1992 Ford F150.

But the main reason for this post is that if you decide to try DMSO as a paint remover, wear gloves. DMSO has the interesting property of carrying dissolved substances right through the skin. 'Nuff said.
 
Tipc I have used seafoam for over 20 years on my 1989 acura. Its still going. When I add seafoam to say the engine Oil. I do an oil change a few hundred miles later. I dont just leave it in there. I have have used it on auto transmissions with slipping gears and dirty fuel injectors. Its worked well for me.


Back to the topic. I used a course plastic bristle brush to try and remove most of the paint. I am going to use scotchbrite and maybe sandpaper on the inside areas of the small cover and base. I grabbed a spare dirty lid I have and watched it. I will retrobright it all and make it work. I will deal with the painted lid down the road.
 
I once put a bottle of Gunk engine flush in a new car, as if it needed that thorough a cleaning. I could,t get the oil drain plug off, I was using a wrench (I was pretty young) and had to drive it to a mechanic 15+.miles away. I ran that car for 205k and it stopped turning over, but engine was still strong. Point is there's always instances where these additives won't destroy and engine. But under the wrong set of circumstances they could. Best to err on the side of caution. Be gentle.
 
Regardless the application for sf I was referring to is dumping an entire bottle in the crank case on account of severe lifter noise or whatever else necessitates a thorough engine cleaning. I don't understand why someone would use sf for 20 years. Egads. Do you mean you put a little in your oil routinely? Has that engine given you repeated problems? Most seasoned mechanics will tell you what I've said. Use a good quality detergent oil and let the gunk gradually dissappear. If you're only supplementing your oil a tad, use the mm stuff. You can put a few ounces at the start of an oil change cylce and leave that much until the next change. Just my 2 cents.

Mm also cleans your fuel injection system. Put a few ounces in the gas tank when you fill up. It seems to do significant good.
 
Haha no. I startee using the product 20 years ago. I dont use it continually why would i? And my car has intermittsnt lifter noise its a known issue i dont use seafoam foe that. I get it.. You dont like the product. Doesnt mean it doesnt work. And im fairly certain the instructions on the side of the bottle do not call for pouring a whole container in at any time.
 
The instructions on the bottle I bought stated to empty entire bottle, run, but never rev, engine for 5 minutes. Change oil. Just not a good idea in my book. It's not about "not liking a product". I've learned the hard way to adopt methodologies to gently, gradually provide improvement. There's so much snake oil out there besides.

Case in my point. Brand new car, I want to say I was dumping a quart of Duralube every oil change for well over 100,000 miles. Certainly no issues, ran that car for over 10 years. Absolutely magnificent maintenance free (largely) experience. So ... did the DL make the difference? Chevy push rod engines are known to be a solid design. And I know people who have put nothing but oil in their engine, and perhaps MM Oil and ran theirs for 350k. So the DL was just a waste in the final analysis.
 
I once put a bottle of Gunk engine flush in a new car, as if it needed that thorough a cleaning. I could,t get the oil drain plug off, I was using a wrench (I was pretty young) and had to drive it to a mechanic 15+.miles away. I ran that car for 205k and it stopped turning over, but engine was still strong. Point is there's always instances where these additives won't destroy and engine. But under the wrong set of circumstances they could. Best to err on the side of caution. Be gentle.

Just used Gunk foam on my Camaro's engine bay and it looks like the day that I first drove it home. Doesn't smell or leave stain marks. I realize it's not in the engine but on it - point being Gunk has always made a good product going back to when I was a kid, and that's a long time.
 
I thought I would add to this post. This guy who is painting yellow vintage computers needs to be stopped. His name on eBay is

titantradingllc


Beware anything they sell as they are hacks.
 
Went to eBay, didn't see anything painted; just a lot of overpriced stuff.
The ones I bought from him didnt look painted in the photos. Im just saying this seller paints yellow computers beware..... Im sure he will list more crap computers at some point... This is just my way of letting folks know to avoid him.
 
How do you know the seller painted the case and didn't acquire it already painted?

I'm struggling to see the motivation behind painting a computer "various shades of yellow" unless it was a movie prop.
 
He never mentioned they were painted. And it was two different auctions. Each one was painted in the same way. And clearly he was hiding the fact that the RF shields rusted away leaving lots of rust stains on the inside of the case which oozed out the port holes.. I already scraped away some paint to see all the rust stains. And they came with no RF shields. I cant wrap my head around it either.
 
You are clearly looking at an example of a person who was clueless about the correct paint to use on the case. There is only one type of readily available paint that works properly to coat plastics.

(but the " who would paint something yellow" question: there is an interesting parallel here; as we age the natural lens in our eye yellows. If too severe it induces some myopia and if goes combination yellow and cloudy it is called a nuclear Cataract. It blocks blue light and alters the color perception. Causing an artist like Monet to paint his paintings colder colors, but after his cataracts were removed, he over-painted a number of them with warmer colors. When the lens is replaced during a Cataract operation, a crystal clear one is generally put in. But a manufacturer came up with the idea of using a yellow tinted lens as a replacement, with an assortment of arguments about benefits of blocking blue light. When I first heard this idea, it stuck me as similar to an Orthopedic Surgeon, fitting a replacement joint that was semi worn out and affected by the equivalent of arthritis. The yellow lens idea never really took off)

Chuck(G) is on the mark. The appropriate stripper to use is Citristrip. It has some other desirable features, it is a relatively benign stripper and not particularly toxic to skin if you wash it off promptly, It washes off in water and appears when I have used it to be relatively non aggressive towards plastics.

Once the old paint is removed, I would not retro-bright it though. I would use Dupli color spray which is excellent for restoring the plastic surfaces to any color you like. It is very fast drying with a highly volatile solvent and it micro etches and fuses with the plastic surface and never separates or flakes. Also it forms a very thin layer and the underlying plastic texture is retained. It preserves the plastic as the years pass, because it largely blocks light. I'm not a fan of oxidative processes/chemicals applied to plastic to bleach it, as I suspect that encourages long term degradation rather than preservation. Also with this remarkable paint, the surface can be made perfectly uniform in color and not blotchy. It actually adopts the surface appearance of the original plastic and it is practically impossible to tell the surface was painted, except by deeply scratching it and examining it with a microscope to detect a color difference at the surface.
 
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