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Super Famicom JR - black and white only screen

spaghetticode

spaghetticode

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Joined
Dec 30, 2016
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19
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Italy
Hello, I made the Super Famicom RGB mod explained here, everything is set properly but the screen is B&W only. I have other regular Super Famicom consoles and they work fine with both this cable and the monitor (I'm using OSSC).

I think it's unlikely, but I'm wondering if this may be caused by the SCART cable that doesn't have csync?
I tried to debug the issue, and it seems all wires are connected properly and work fine singularly. For example, if I leave only the R wire attached, the picture becomes red, same for the other 2 colors. Does anybody know the reason for this?
 
Its easy to tell, use a multi-meter to check the resistance. If you already have the Famicom open, you can check continuity from the leads you soldered on the RGB chip's pins, through to the coresponding blades on the SCART connector. While there check R, G, B, CSYNC and the R, G, B grounds end to end. Since its only an extra minute, make sure you do not have shorts between the R, G, B, CSYNC and each other - test in pairs - you will have some resistance, but not 0.
 
Are we doing modern (yes these mini consoles are modern) consoles on the forum now? I didnt even know we were doing vintage consoles.
 
VERAULT said:
Are we doing modern (yes these mini consoles are modern) consoles on the forum now? I didnt even know we were doing vintage consoles.
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This is a *real* SNES, not the mini. You know, slim/mini versions of consoles were made long before the emulation-based modern mini re-releases.
 
Timo W. said:
This is a *real* SNES, not the mini. You know, slim/mini versions of consoles were made long before the emulation-based modern mini re-releases.
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I clicked on his link provided above. It says SNES mini, many times. Does he mean SNES 2? Either way, are we doing consoles? I was just curious, I haven't seen console posts here before.
 
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The Super Famicom Jr. ( as mentioned in OP's title ) aka SNES Mini ( as it was known in the US ) were made in 1997. As an aside, the Vectrex is a console that is often discussed here, as are computer based games, I think all those discussions are consistent with "A place to discuss vintage gaming topics." But certainly a moderator can answer your question as to if this topic is OT.
 
There's nothing wrong talking about the SNES here. Just look at the 10 most-current topics in this forum and you will find Sega Master System and Game Gear being mentioned. Then Atari Lynx, Vectrex etc. All is fine, so relax. :giggle:
 
Timo W. said:
There's nothing wrong talking about the SNES here. Just look at the 10 most-current topics in this forum and you will find Sega Master System and Game Gear being mentioned. Then Atari Lynx, Vectrex etc. All is fine, so relax. :giggle:
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I NEVER SAID THERE WAS ANYTHING WRONG I ASKED IF WE WERE COVERING CONSOLES!!!!!!!!
 
Bob-O-Rama said:
Its easy to tell, use a multi-meter to check the resistance. If you already have the Famicom open, you can check continuity from the leads you soldered on the RGB chip's pins, through to the coresponding blades on the SCART connector. While there check R, G, B, CSYNC and the R, G, B grounds end to end. Since its only an extra minute, make sure you do not have shorts between the R, G, B, CSYNC and each other - test in pairs - you will have some resistance, but not 0.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion and I'm sorry I didn't mention that, but I had done all the checks you suggested but forgot to mention them, as I supposed the fact that every single color was visible separately kind of implicitly made clear continuity was fine.
 
spaghetticode said:
Thanks for the suggestion and I'm sorry I didn't mention that, but I had done all the checks you suggested but forgot to mention them, as I supposed the fact that every single color was visible separately kind of implicitly made clear continuity was fine.
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For the R, G, and B lines I think that is a good enough test, for sure. I was more concerned with the CSYNC line which is called something like "RGB detect" in SCART-speak IIRC. If that is not getting to the monitor, it may not know how to interpret those signals. I suspect it is interpreting the R, G, or B line as a luma signal, with chroma being nothing - so "50 shades of grey." SCART is a mess specifically because of its reuse of pins for 2 or 3 different incompatible signal types.
 
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