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Commodore 1311 joysticks - Are they really that bad?

TH2002

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Jan 6, 2020
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Since I now own an SD2IEC and am also looking to expand my collection of physical software titles for my VIC-20 and C64, I'd like to 'upgrade' my joystick from the awful noname CX-40 ripoff controller I have.

I know that Commodore 1311 joysticks can still be found for reasonable prices, but looking them up brings up TONS of results of people saying they're "the worst vintage joystick I've ever used" and the like. But are they really that bad, or are they perfectly viable retro joysticks to use? Even if they are bad, I would imagine anything would be better than the controller I have at the moment...
 
They are pretty terrible, and the crude switches in the controller bend fast. This creates a super floppy controller. I suggest a Kraft joystick, which is around the same price.
 
So... I ended up buying a lot of five joysticks on eBay that included two "Gemstik" controllers, two "Gemstik Mini" controllers and the dreaded Commodore 1311.

The Gemstik is probably my favorite controller of the lot. Feels a bit cheap and plasticy, but is perfectly responsive, comfortable to use and the button has a satisfying click to it. For a late 80's aftermarket 2600 controller, not too shabby. There are two of these in the lot, the other of which also works but is very sloppy so I'll have to see what I can do to fix that.

As for the 1311, it didn't work properly when I first got it. It was a pain in the @ss to take apart and work on (mainly due to how many corners Commodore cut when making these darn things), but I was able to get it working again. Has a bit of slop to it, though not a horrible amount, and at least the joystick is tight and responsive. The fire button also has a satisfying click to it, though not as much as the Gemstik.

But to answer the original question: Are the Commodore 1311's really as bad as everyone makes them out to be? May be controversial, but I'm honestly gonna have to say no. They are cheaply made, but they do work and I don't find them horribly uncomfortable to use.

The other two controllers in the lot are two "Mini Gemstik"s. If you thought the 1311 was bad, try these. They don't respond properly, the cheap plastic squeaks when you're playing games and I just don't like the way they feel. To be entirely fair, they may be broken and possibly suited better to a 2600 or other game console.
 
To be entirely fair, they may be broken and possibly suited better to a 2600 or other game console.
Oh! So because our CPU has only 28 pins instead of 40, or we don't get totally stupid with literally 512 times as much memory as anybody should ever need, we deserve bad joysticks? :)
 
Oh! So because our CPU has only 28 pins instead of 40, or we don't get totally stupid with literally 512 times as much memory as anybody should ever need, we deserve bad joysticks? :)
Hey, the Commodore Clan are the real losers here. Do remember that the C64 eats up half of its memory just by being turned on ;)

On a serious note, I do think the Mini Gemstiks are likely broken. They seem fragile based how cheap they feel, so no surprise there. Maybe I'll get around to taking them apart and seeing if I can get them to work right.
 
So... the Gemstiks I bought started to have issues after a day or so of using them. The contact system is virtually identical to the 1311 I repaired, so here's how I fixed both of them:

[DISCLAIMER that you don't have to follow this word for word, I'm just telling you what worked for me. Proceed at your own risk!]

Disassemble the joystick. Peel back the tape (yes, literal tape) holding the contacts on. Hit the board with penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes, then follow up with rubbing alcohol. Recommend using a toothbrush or something similar so you can scrub the board, the alcohol will clear the penetrating oil and the brush will help get rid of the loosened adhesive. If there is still too much of the old adhesive remaining, repeat. The board doesn't have to be 100% perfect, as long as all the contacts on the board are clean, proceed to the next step.

Here's the fun part! Boot up a game on your 2600, C64 or whatever you're using. The rest is just trial and error to orient the contacts correctly so continuity occurs when you press them down. Sometimes, the contacts are bent flat and you may need to bend them back into an arc shape so they work correctly - BE CAREFUL if you have to do this, because they WILL break if you're not careful. Once oriented correctly, tape them back into place with a piece of packing tape cut to the right size. When applying the tape, use only very light pressure over the contact itself, but feel free to press down harder over the surrounding areas. I recommend using separate, smaller pieces of tape for all of the contacts, though if you MUST use one or two large pieces, make sure to go back with a knife and cut a hole for the joystick shaft. If using smaller pieces, just poke holes with a screwdriver for your screw holes. Feel free to give the bare PCB w/ all of the reinstalled contacts a final quick test before you reassemble your joystick.

That's it, happy gaming!

Also, I know a lot of people are gonna blast me for saying this but to be honest, I've changed my mind. The Commodore 1311 is now my favorite joystick out of the lot since the Gemstik was even more of a pain in the @ss to get working again, and it feels a bit more solid than the latter.
 
I like the "Slik-Stik". They are very durable (no little metal dimpels inside) and responsive. The funny thing is- the main joystick part is an auto tire valve!
 
Another update...

So, working on the aforementioned Gemstik was equally baffling as it was incredibly frustrating. The contacts would cut in and out seemingly at random - sometimes all four directions would work, sometimes only up and right, sometimes only down, so on so forth... its behavior would change constantly and I was never able to get it working reliably. I ruled out the metal contacts themselves as being the issue and after much troubleshooting with the board just said "screw it" and coated every trace with solder... STILL the same issue. So I just threw it away and turned my attention to the second Gemstik. It's actually in slightly worse condition due to being more heavily used than the one I threw out, but I was able to get it working perfectly again using the method I described above. Still has a lot of slop, but all four directions and the fire button are 100% responsive and it's not half bad to use.

I spent $50 on these five joysticks, and I'm gonna have to say it wasn't worth it. Out of five I was only able to get the Commodore 1311 and one of the Gemstiks working. The other one I was never able to get working reliably and the "Mini Gemstiks" (not the full sized Gemstiks) feel like rubbish even if they did work properly. On the bright side, I suppose $50 is about what I would have paid for two working Atari CX-40 controllers.

(Also gonna throw out there that I see some eBay sellers charging nearly $30 for ONE Gemstik, which is criminal. Even the notoriously overpriced DKOldies is only charging $17, even though they're hardly worth $10 anyway...)
 
Thinking of replacing my bad joystick with a Commodore 1311. Are they okay for retro gaming, or should I look elsewhere? Anything's better than what I have now.
 
**
Thinking of replacing my bad joystick with a Commodore 1311. Are they okay for retro gaming, or should I look elsewhere? Anything's better than what I have now.
That's exactly why I seeked out a 1311, I was previously using an awful CX-40 ripoff controller that I swear takes 47 million tons of force on the stick to register inputs.

To be honest, I like the 1311. I do find it to be comfortable to use and it's very responsive. You'll likely have to repair it using the method I described above. Takes about 20-30 minutes, if not less to do the repair.
 
Another update...

So, working on the aforementioned Gemstik was equally baffling as it was incredibly frustrating. The contacts would cut in and out seemingly at random - sometimes all four directions would work, sometimes only up and right, sometimes only down, so on so forth... its behavior would change constantly and I was never able to get it working reliably. I ruled out the metal contacts themselves as being the issue and after much troubleshooting with the board just said "screw it" and coated every trace with solder... STILL the same issue. So I just threw it away and turned my attention to the second Gemstik. It's actually in slightly worse condition due to being more heavily used than the one I threw out, but I was able to get it working perfectly again using the method I described above. Still has a lot of slop, but all four directions and the fire button are 100% responsive and it's not half bad to use.

I spent $50 on these five joysticks, and I'm gonna have to say it wasn't worth it. Out of five I was only able to get the Commodore 1311 and one of the Gemstiks working. The other one I was never able to get working reliably and the "Mini Gemstiks" (not the full sized Gemstiks) feel like rubbish even if they did work properly. On the bright side, I suppose $50 is about what I would have paid for two working Atari CX-40 controllers.

(Also gonna throw out there that I see some eBay sellers charging nearly $30 for ONE Gemstik, which is criminal. Even the notoriously overpriced DKOldies is only charging $17, even though they're hardly worth $10 anyway...)
Spending $50 on five joysticks didn't quite pay off – only the Commodore 1311 and one Gemstik are in good shape. The "Mini Gemstiks" aren't just small; they feel cheap and didn't work well, even if you got them functioning.

On a positive note, at least you got a couple of controllers working despite the challenges. It's a reminder that not every retro gaming purchase turns out as expected.

By the way, those eBay prices for Gemstiks seem a bit outrageous, especially compared to more reasonable options elsewhere.
 
I still find boxes of crusty joysticks at the flea market. I have probably 50 of them in a box somewhere... If you are willing to put in the time cleaning them, you can always get a few spares working.
 
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