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Need help with resistors

BGoins12

Experienced Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
249
Location
Amherst, Ohio
So the temperature gauge has never worked in my truck. I found through research that the resistor on the back of the gauge is most likely the culprit. Problem is, I can't find a 92 ohm resistor. I was told that if I wired a 100 ohm and a 1.2k ohm resistor in parallel, it will equal around 92 ohms. True? Any help would be great!
 
It varies. The best combination is 110+560 in parallel.

Code:
Resistance R1 in ohms	Resistance R2 in ohms	Target resistance (parallel) in ohms	Deviation in percent
100	1100	91.66	-0.37
100	1200	92.3	+0.33
100	1300	92.85	+0.93
110	560	91.94	-0.08
120	390	91.76	-0.26
150	240	92.3	+0.33
160	220	92.63	+0.68
220	160	92.63	+0.68
240	150	92.3	+0.33
390	120	91.76	-0.26
560	110	91.94	-0.08
1100	100	91.66	-0.37

See here: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-parallel.htm
 
So let's assume that he has a 12V electrical system, the total dissipation across that of a 92 ohm resistor would be 1.6W. I suspect that it's much less; two one-watt resistors would do fine.

But you can also get 92 ohm power resistors 15 watt also.

I suspect that you're dealing with the old-style nichrome wound on ceramic automotive resistors, right?
 
Don't forget to get resistors of sufficient precision so you end up with 92ohm, 20% resistors would only get the final resistance somewhere in the ballpark but not necessarily 92ohm.
 
Okay, I stand corrected, but close to what? Mine just says "H" and "C" (I have an F150). I'm happy when its somewhere in the middle. It's kind of interesting that there are two coolant sensors in mine--one for the ECU and the other for the temperature gauge.
 
I have several cars that are kind of ambiguous, but they do have a 210 mark in the dead centre, and a 100 mark at the left, and a 260 mark at the right. (One has tick marks that don't appear to sit at rational numbers.) If I use a 212 degree thermostat, the needle sits right at 210. With my temp gun at the head where the sensor is, I forget the number, but it is something very consistent, but higher than that. If I use a 180 degree thermostat (which I normally do), the needle sits right where you'd expect a 180 tick to be, and yes, I've measured. :)

I don't know if it's intentional, but the reading is close to the marking on the thermostat, not the actual temperature. I imagine it is intentional, that if the gauge reads consistently higher than the thermostat, some people would complain, much like the impedance figures of audio amplifier inputs.

In any case, I have four vehicles from 1990 to 2000 that have the same gauge, yet different electronics, and all read the same.

I have two other vehicles which have different gauges, but the same as each other. One is a 1981, the other a 1988. There are no markings on the gauges, but, with different thermostats they both show the same reading for each respective thermostat. My 180 degree always puts the pointer right at the low mark above the "C". I have had both of them up above the "H" for various reason, and I have no idea what that actually means. But, being the motors they are, any damage sure isn't apparent after many, many years.
 
I suppose that if one were obsessive, that shunt could be replaced with an adjustable wire-wound power resistor and carefully calibrated. Or even a wirewound rheostat. My F150 is a 1992, so it falls into the general "vintage" category. I've done all the work on it myself; the latest thing was replacing the PVC vacuum hose with silicone.
 
I don't know if it's intentional...

Well, according to Stant's website a thermostat starts to open within +/- 2 degrees F of the marked value and opens fully 15-20 degrees higher.
So, if you are seeing a similar number on your gauge then it's most likely that the engine's coolant heat is being adequately dissipated at only a minimal opening of the thermostat.

The thermostat needs that additional working range to provide damped control (i.e., not go unstable) of engine temperature.

Some car brands are known for fudging the operating linearity of the gauge to ensure it falls exactly at the center at normal temperature to avoid calls from the overly-pedantic owners of those BMWs.
 
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