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Video card help

New2vtgpc

Experienced Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2019
Messages
122
Location
Iowa
I recently aquired a few vintage parts; a slot 1 mobo and 2 old video cards. One is a decent shape ati mach64pci, but the other is a trident blade 3d pci and its rough. One of the capacitors is broke off and id like to repair it but I have no idea of the value needed. Anyone have this card or know what value id need? Its C38 on the board if it helps.. Site wont let me upload a pic since its too big but label on back says (Video- 107pci-3d 8m)
 
Its a power rail capacitor. Check to see which rail it is on. 10 or 20 uf tantalum with sufficient voltage would be fine.
Dwight
 
Its a power rail capacitor. Check to see which rail it is on. 10 or 20 uf tantalum with sufficient voltage would be fine.
Dwight

I'll do some checking and figure out which one. Although I need to diag mobo first. No video output. Theres no vga on board and none of my gpus display a signal. Cant proceed till thats solved.
But till then I'll do some testing on the video card and see what capacitors I need
 
If the board doesn't work, it is not likely the power line filter. I know this likely falls on deaf ears but replacing the capacitors is mot likely to make it work. The capacitor that is missing will not stop some signal from coming out.
Dwight
 
If the board doesn't work, it is not likely the power line filter. I know this likely falls on deaf ears but replacing the capacitors is mot likely to make it work. The capacitor that is missing will not stop some signal from coming out.
Dwight

Well, I mean I'm testing the motherboard board I got with the two video cards. Its a slot one labeled e139761 and jusr plugged a psu and keyboard in to make sure it worked as well. But my known good vid cards all display no video on it. The board has no integrated vid or audio like the older AT boards but this one atx powered and ps/2. I didn't try the video card with busted capacitor for the obvious reason.
 
Attach a PC Speaker or peizo buzzer to the speaker header on the motherboard so you can see if it generates POST code beeps. If it doesn't make any noise with a speaker correctly connected then the board is very dead.

For a value of the capacitor, it's most likely the same as the other capacitors on the card. 10uF 16V will probably be fine. I wouldn't use a tantalum cap, just use normal electrolytics.
 
Attach a PC Speaker or peizo buzzer to the speaker header on the motherboard so you can see if it generates POST code beeps. If it doesn't make any noise with a speaker correctly connected then the board is very dead.

For a value of the capacitor, it's most likely the same as the other capacitors on the card. 10uF 16V will probably be fine. I wouldn't use a tantalum cap, just use normal electrolytics.

It beeps with no ram and nothing else but cpu on board. I plugged in a working 2mb card and ram and nothing happens. But i think it the ram. All ram i do have that would go into slot is pc100/133. This board requires pc66. I'll order a small stick off eBay to test that before I do much else. I figured pc100 be compatible but guess not.
 
Attach a PC Speaker or peizo buzzer to the speaker header on the motherboard so you can see if it generates POST code beeps. If it doesn't make any noise with a speaker correctly connected then the board is very dead.

For a value of the capacitor, it's most likely the same as the other capacitors on the card. 10uF 16V will probably be fine. I wouldn't use a tantalum cap, just use normal electrolytics.

Theres a mix of cap on board some are 10uf 16, some are 20uf 25. I'm assuming that your right about a 10uf16 working, (since im not all that good with small elec. components)
 
It beeps with no ram and nothing else but cpu on board. I plugged in a working 2mb card and ram and nothing happens. But i think it the ram. All ram i do have that would go into slot is pc100/133. This board requires pc66. I'll order a small stick off eBay to test that before I do much else. I figured pc100 be compatible but guess not.

PC100/133 is backwards compatible with PC66 in most cases, it will just run at the slower speed.

You may have oxidized PCI slots, you can try spraying some Deoxit Gold in the slots and inserting/removing the video card several times. If you can't get any Deoxit, 91% isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush may also work. You may also try removing and reinstalling the CPU several times and also cleaning the slot and CPU contacts.

Oxidized slots has been a problem with many of my old boards, cards and memory modules.
 
PC100/133 is backwards compatible with PC66 in most cases, it will just run at the slower speed.

You may have oxidized PCI slots, you can try spraying some Deoxit Gold in the slots and inserting/removing the video card several times. If you can't get any Deoxit, 91% isopropyl alcohol and a soft toothbrush may also work. You may also try removing and reinstalling the CPU several times and also cleaning the slot and CPU contacts.

Oxidized slots has been a problem with many of my old boards, cards and memory modules.

Thats what I thought too but its weird none of my pc100 works. JC....i think the board is a al440lx board (from what i can tell using board numbers and pics) and from waht I can tell it only accepts low density pc66....but again i thought pc100/133 was baclwards compatible like you said...or is the lx chipset the "few cases" that doesnt apply?
 
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