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WTB: Ohio Scientific CPU board

G

gekaufman

Experienced Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
265
Location
New Hampshire, USA
I have my C2-4P that I purchased back in around 1977 - unfortunately during a long period of storage it had significant mouse damage. I have the video board and power supply working but the damage to the CPU board was more significant.

I'd love to find a 502 or similar CPU board so I can get the system back to life.

Also interested in other Ohio Scientific stuff!

Thanks

- Gary
 
Hi Garry,

can you post some pics of the board please ?

I do come across the odd stuff from time to time.

Also if you can show so up close detail of the mouse damaged areas, fokes here can give you repair ideas.

A few here inc myself have repaired board damage caused by rodents. Obviously depends on your skills and experience, but mostly it takes time and patience.

If its just pcb track damage that is often repairable with the track repair kits, that have copper strip with adhesive on one side.

As an example, be it in my view an overpriced kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Circuit-Boa...680424?hash=item5b1e517b68:g:EM8AAOSwAYtWJB-5
 
Here are a few pictures.

The board was originally coated in urine/feces/fur. I've scrubbed it extensively, so it looks a lot better now.

I suspect some of the sockets are making poor contact, and some of the jumpers from the 1970's will need replacing.

It's probably fixable, but if I could find a better CPU board to work with I'd like to start there and get the system up first.

Almost all of the ribbon cables were chewed up, as were much of the other wiring. I've rebuilt the power supply, resprayed the case and replaced the ribbon cable from the keyboard.

I think the video board is ok (It displays random junque).

- Gary

OS3.jpg

OS2.jpg

OS1.jpg
 
Unless the light is playing games, the bottom of that board looks really bad; Corroded and broken traces galore. I think loose sockets are the least of that boards' problems.

Some of the traces look fixable by adding some solder to them, but others will probably need to have the whole trace run again. You might be able to get by with some of that silver epoxy used for fixing window defrosters to make a good connection again.
 
It may look worse in the picture than it is in person. A lot of the corrosion on the traces is on the surface, and the underlying traces are mostly intact. Sadly some of the sockets are fairly corroded internally. I fear it may be the electronic equivalent of "Whack a mole" to try and restore.

- Gary
 
I've used that "krud kutter" rust remover to recondition heavily corroded and tarnished sockets, traces, RAM sticks, card edge connectors, etc. to great effect.

You could try some on a Q-tip and dab it in each of the socket holes and scrub them with a clean Q-tip end to see if any of it comes off. I would say you could remove the sockets and do that, but if you go through that much trouble it'd be easier to replace the sockets.
 
Good thought, thanks. I do anticipate that most/many of the sockets will need to be swapped. I also installed the "Cegmon" monitor with the rather crude wiring when I was 16. I'll do a better job on the rebuild. My soldering has improved a bit in 40 years :)

- Gary
 
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