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Cromemco JS-1 Joystick Replica

This look pretty good to me! I know plexi can be a real pain. I can't tell by the photo, did the little notches get added to the key switch cutouts? it may just be too fine of a detail to show up on plexi.

Also if you measure and look at Hugo's question above about A/B/C, what did A end up at with your cut?

Yes, they're there but they're pretty subtle. It'll be a bit better now that I've dialed in the lash. Though the X lash is only 0.002 so that won't matter much on a 0.014 inset.

Here's the ABC's as best I understand them

1714420070313.png
 
Yes, they're there but they're pretty subtle. It'll be a bit better now that I've dialed in the lash. Though the X lash is only 0.002 so that won't matter much on a 0.014 inset.

Here's the ABC's as best I understand them

Ok cool I think these values are perfect - was just difficult to make out in the picture. BTW I'll be mailing my enclosures & parts out tomorrow.
 
Cromemco's manual for the D+7A (rev E) specifies both the 3130 and 3140 in the parts list, and 3140 in the schematic. Of course it doesn't matter which part is installed in our case since these 3130/3140s are used to drive the analog outputs of this board, and we are using the board only for its analog inputs.

With regard to R22 - the manual provides a table showing the board mods that need to be made to support different input voltage ranges (bipolar, unipolar positive, or unipolar negative). The joysticks require the D+7A to be set up for bipolar input (-2.56V to +2.56V) which requires the following components and values:
R22 - omitted
R5 and R12 - 500 ohm
R7 and R20 - 2.7K ohm
R14 - 5.1K
R23 - 1.2K
Can you post the link to the manual scan you are using ?
 
On the Cromemco unit unfortunately I wasn't able to get an exact measurement because they switches are already installed in the enclosure and I didn't want to risk anything by trying to remove them.
What about the switches themselves, what did they measure on the caliper ?
 
What about the switches themselves, what did they measure on the caliper ?

Here are my actual measurements in green. Keep in mind according to this sheet you found, this is the recommended panel cut-out sizes, not necessarily the size of the switch itself. My measurements in green are of the switch itself.

1714437603433.png
 
So after seeing the built up prototype, I was motivated to take another look at the regulator and as suggested, I looked at my Dazzler replica that I did a couple of years ago. As it turns out, Hugo's original layout was spot on.

With that, here's yet another update...

When you have a chance, could you post the latest gerbers? I will be placing a JLCPCB order in the next few days and will place an order for these as well. I will be getting some extras and will share them with anyone who needs them for the cost of shipping.
 
When you have a chance, could you post the latest gerbers? I will be placing a JLCPCB order in the next few days and will place an order for these as well. I will be getting some extras and will share them with anyone who needs them for the cost of shipping.
Excellent... I absolutely would like to get a couple of those boards.
 
When you have a chance, could you post the latest gerbers? I will be placing a JLCPCB order in the next few days and will place an order for these as well. I will be getting some extras and will share them with anyone who needs them for the cost of shipping.

Here you go. Less than $22 USD delivered for qty 5 from JLCPCB. I ordered larger and quite a bit more complex boards for another project from them late Thursday evening. They were in my hands on Monday. Crazy turnaround.
 

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WOW. great job! You just mostly filed these out by hand or what? How are you planning to do the decals?
Yes, all hand done with regular and diamond files, except for the drill press, it is somewhat of a process, I could post how I did it.

I got some decal material to laser print on, I have been experimenting with it. It does require a surface varnish or lacquer to give it strength and baking it at 75 deg C for half an hour helps. I found that Dupli-color clear spray chemically reacts with it, which was interesting with microscopic surface bubbling. This paint has a fairly volatile solvent and it is particularly good for restoring plastic finishes because it surface etches into the plastic and never flakes off. I use it a lot on vintage yellowed computer plastics as its far better than bleaching them. But its not ideal for the decal material cosmetically, but curiously it resulted in super strong adhesion after it dried. Probably at this point, depending on how the experiments go, I will use marine spar varnish applied over the decal with a small artist's brush. Still not 100% sure.
 
After decaling with MicroSol and MicroSet, I used to airbrush the final coat on my competition scale models with Johnsons Future floor polish, a hard-wearing acrylic liquid, used undiluted, with perfect results. I'm guessing Hugo's surface bubbling could be that Dupli-color spray is an enamel-based lacquer?
 
Yes, all hand done with regular and diamond files, except for the drill press, it is somewhat of a process, I could post how I did it.
I am interested in a "how to". I've done similar sheet metal work, but nothing quite as complex as the cutouts this project requires.
 
I am interested in a "how to". I've done similar sheet metal work, but nothing quite as complex as the cutouts this project requires.

In the case of these holes, I decided the better method was to cut them from the inside of the housing and work largely from the inside with the outside face on a flat surface. One problem is marking holes in a way that makes their borders clear and is resistant to the effects of filing nearby. If the hole border is not clear to see, its not possible to easily file it out to the correct position.

The we are dealing with a pre-painted panel, so all care must be taken to protect the paint. I applied initially two layers of polyimide tape, it sticks well enough, but not too sticky that it removes paint. Many tapes leave residual glue on a surface, it does not. Then I applied some heavier plastic tape over that Photo 1.

Photo 2: To mark the holes to be drilled I applied a decal on the inside. This was done in a drawing program. The holes to be drilled had a small central white dot. If you zoom up on this photo you will see those dots in the decal and this entire pattern was laid out over a 1/16th inch grid with a transparency effect, then that grid was deleted last thing from the image. The decal was applied, and I heated it in the oven to 75 degrees for 1/2 an hour, and after that applied the duplicolor clear spray over it. This made the decal super stuck to the panel and not affected by filing.

Then a scribe was used to create a small mark on each white dot. Then very carefully, a 1mm drill , held in a hand pin chuck was used to start each hole. After that all of the holes were initially drilled with 1.5mm pilot holes in the drill press with high magnification to make sure each hole started on the small indent provided by the 1mm drill tip. Once they were all inspected, they were then all drilled out to 3mm, except the ones for the two 1" long x 1/8" slots, these were drilled out to 2.5mm diameter. As shown transilluminated in photo 3.

It is very important to inspect the work after the 1.5mm pilot holes are drilled, if any hole was out of position you can choose then to drill it out to a smaller diameter and solve the problem that way.

After this some small needle nosed side cutters are used to cut between the holes.

Photo4: It is very important after the holes are done to trim the tape away from the hole edges and apply fresh tape on the painted side of the panel near the hole edges. What happens is the drill pushes the tape a little away from the surface and swarf gets under the tape edges, this can mark the paint if it is not removed. This issue is always worse if you are drilling toward a painted surface rather than through it initially.

Photo 5: an assortment of files are used , a large round type A. One the large hole is filed, some 600 grade paper is wrapped around a cylinder and used as a tool to smooth the hole edges and remove the tooling marks from the edges.

For the square holes, the file I used is a flat type, B which has no serrations down its sides, this makes it very easy to file out a rectangular hole. When filing is being done, from time to time, apart from looking at the decal markings, the geometry is checked with the dial calipers. The 1/8" wide slots were done with the small flat needle file C.
File D is a 3mm square section needle file, used to finish ends of the slot holes.

All of the rectangular holes are then finished with the needle file E which removes most of the tooling marks from the other regular files. Then file F is used to start the small rectangular sections in the sides of the square holes, until file E (which is 4mm wide) just fits, this is used to finish those. Also at the finish, the rectangular hole cut edges are additionally smoothed with some 600 grade paper wrapped around the needle files.

Then the issue of how to remove the remainder of the decal: I use some Citri-strip paint stripper applied a thin layer very carefully with an artist's brush and very sparingly just to the decal surface, not enough to pass into the holes. The decal turned to goo very quickly and most of it removed with a plastic scraper, then after that the panel was washed, the tape removed and the inside of the panel cleaned again with a cloth and contact cleaner and the hole edges also cleaned with cue tips and contact cleaner.

No doubt all of the above explains why it is better most of the time to send the work to the local CNC shop !
 

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I have been playing around trying to figure out where to fit the 2" speaker. One issue is that unfortunately the Hammond cases have pre-punched slots that are in a sort of no man's land for the speaker. And it is not a good idea to pass any screws through the slots either. It is important the speaker is adequately vented.

The speaker I am using is the 2" 8 Ohm Visaton one from from Mouser FRWS 5 SC.

I have attached a diagram. I decided the smart move would be to imagine the slots, that ended up in the speaker area, were part of a hole array and place imaginary holes over them (blue in the diagram). Then the geometry of those imaginary holes would determine the rest of the real hole array. This way it gives it some sort of physical balance in the appearance, despite those slots. I would recommend 3mm or 1/8 inch diameter holes.

Ignore all the other outlines and marks on the attached diagram except the 1/16th inch grid and the speaker holes. ( I am still playing around with the idea of using a tag strip too).

If this diagram is printed out at 6.5" x 2.5" perimeter , it can be cut out and used as a template to mark the speaker mounting & vent holes, prior to drilling, from the painted side of the case, assuming it is the same sized speaker that is. Likely though the hole array would suit a lot of 2" speakers, but the 4 mounting holes might need to be moved for the individual speaker.
 

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I have been playing around trying to figure out where to fit the 2" speaker. One issue is that unfortunately the Hammond cases have pre-punched slots that are in a sort of no man's land for the speaker. And it is not a good idea to pass any screws through the slots either. It is important the speaker is adequately vented.

The speaker I am using is the 2" 8 Ohm Visaton one from from Mouser FRWS 5 SC.

I have attached a diagram. I decided the smart move would be to imagine the slots, that ended up in the speaker area, were part of a hole array and place imaginary holes over them (blue in the diagram). Then the geometry of those imaginary holes would determine the rest of the real hole array. This way it gives it some sort of physical balance in the appearance, despite those slots. I would recommend 3mm or 1/8 inch diameter holes.

Ignore all the other outlines and marks on the attached diagram except the 1/16th inch grid and the speaker holes. ( I am still playing around with the idea of using a tag strip too).

If this diagram is printed out at 6.5" x 2.5" perimeter , it can be cut out and used as a template to mark the speaker mounting & vent holes, prior to drilling, from the painted side of the case, assuming it is the same sized speaker that is. Likely though the hole array would suit a lot of 2" speakers, but the 4 mounting holes might need to be moved for the individual speaker.
This looks really nice, I'll have to try and figure out something similar, as I went with the 2x3" speakers.
 
I've created a Mouser project for all the components needed for the PCB here: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=e130c7c33d - the quantities are for a single PCB

@Hugo Holden Would you mind taking a look at the chosen transistors in particular to make sure they match the specs we want? Thanks!

Mostly very inexpensive parts except for those tantalum caps.. Do you think an axial electrolytic could be substituted?
 
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