Caluser2000
Banned
A very very small dab of silicone grease on the rails should be fine. Work the rails after applying it.
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DB37 CDROM port
- Thread starter Syntho
- Start date
NeXT
Veteran Member
Yes. Just a very tiny amount.
I got it greased, just a very minute amount. I still have trouble with it spitting out a CDROM, but maybe it's because I need a better, less scratched one. I also tried these new CDRs I just got, some JVC Taiyo Yuden ones, and they don't work either. Sometime down the road I might try out some other CDRs, but for now I'm just gonna call it day. Thanks for everyone's input, it was nice to get this thing restored.
Caluser2000
Banned
Good on you for sticking at it 
T-R-A
Veteran Member
Old CD drives have big trouble with CD-R discs. You may have to try several brands before getting one to work. Also many old drives won't recognize the 700MB write capacity of new CD-RWs. Stick with the old 650MB format.
I want to update this thread. There is only one slight issue with this CDROM now and it was prevalent before the recap. I notice that when I put in a CD, it won't always read upon first try. I have to stick a paperclip into the hole to get it to 'reset' itself. Sometimes I have to do it times before the CD begins reading. I'm thinking there might be something mechanical going on where the CD in the unit isn't detected unless it's sitting just right, or something like that.
Also, still on the hunt for some CDRs that work in this unit. Any recommendations?
Also, still on the hunt for some CDRs that work in this unit. Any recommendations?
T-R-A
Veteran Member
Again, depending on the age of the drive, you possibly may never find CD-R's that work reliably. Having said that, I've found some older drives prefer Philips discs over about any other (YMMV). But you may be buying many many discs before finding the magic-bullet ones that work (if any of them ever do). Again, you need to be burning the discs at 650MB, not the "more modern" 700MB format.
I can't believe this but it's working now. I had to use an oldschool computer and burn it at 4x, and make sure all the settings were right.
But now I'm curious about why I need to eject and reinsert the caddy/disc a few times before it starts to read.
Also, in my old config.sys file, the CDROM driver had the switch /B:340. I don't know what that is. I looked briefly online for information on that switch but didn't find anything. Not sure what /B: or the 340 is.
But now I'm curious about why I need to eject and reinsert the caddy/disc a few times before it starts to read.
Also, in my old config.sys file, the CDROM driver had the switch /B:340. I don't know what that is. I looked briefly online for information on that switch but didn't find anything. Not sure what /B: or the 340 is.
hornbetw
Experienced Member
The /B:340 probably sets the I/O Port address for the CD Drive.
Tom
Tom
Update: whenever I needed to use the CDROM I had to spend a few minutes popping the caddy in and out to get it to finally read. After months, now the CDROM won't read at all. It just says invalid drive specification.
It was doing this when I first got it, and even after the recap, so I'm not sure what to do to fix it. The light comes on when the driver is loaded, and it seems to partially spin up when inserting a CD, but it can't read further than that.
It was doing this when I first got it, and even after the recap, so I'm not sure what to do to fix it. The light comes on when the driver is loaded, and it seems to partially spin up when inserting a CD, but it can't read further than that.
If it was barely used, why did it have that issue already adumbrating when you got it? Unless you bought it when it was new, don't ever expect something was just barely used. People don't buy expensive stuff only not to use it.
Anyway, it doesn't say much. The laser and the lens age as well. The lens can become dull over time - faster so when exposed to heat (from usage). A cheap laser may also die after only 1.000 hours. It's possible as well that the GAIN, BIAS, and FOCUS voltages drifted, especially after a re-cap. When I get older CD drives, I normally check and re-adjust these first. But that requires some knowledge and the datasheets for the laser assembly.
If not done already, try carefully cleaning the lens using IPA.
Anyway, it doesn't say much. The laser and the lens age as well. The lens can become dull over time - faster so when exposed to heat (from usage). A cheap laser may also die after only 1.000 hours. It's possible as well that the GAIN, BIAS, and FOCUS voltages drifted, especially after a re-cap. When I get older CD drives, I normally check and re-adjust these first. But that requires some knowledge and the datasheets for the laser assembly.
If not done already, try carefully cleaning the lens using IPA.
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The unit hasn't been used since the early 90e, trust me.
I cleaned it with IPA already. I could probably adjust it and see if it'll work because I have a multimeter, oscilloscope etc but I haven't ever adjusted a laser. Hmm. Tempting to just chunk it to not waste time but I feel like I'm almost there with it
I cleaned it with IPA already. I could probably adjust it and see if it'll work because I have a multimeter, oscilloscope etc but I haven't ever adjusted a laser. Hmm. Tempting to just chunk it to not waste time but I feel like I'm almost there with it
twolazy
Veteran Member
Could be whatever gear ejects the mechanism cracked or belt is worn and its not hitting the switch right telling the cdrom the caddy is inserted, similar to how macintosh floppy drives go bad.