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Retrobright by sun only

Tez, very interesting--have you identified which kind of UV is responsible? (UVA, UVB or UVC)? My guess is probably UVC.
I don't know Chuck. I don't have my head around all the science and as I said in the article, people are still debating it. should sit down sometime and read, and try to understand all the articles that deal with this. It would make a good desk research project. Perhaps when I'm in COVID-19 isolation :)
 
I'm thinking about my old EPROM eraser with the germicidal fluorescent tube in it. It's got years of wear and the UV has turned the gray plastic interior brown--sort of a reverse retr0brite.

Similarly, I've had gear that stood near a window for years and the side facing the window is yellow-brown.

It's a puzzle. :)
 
Interesting. I've been meaning to give this a try but 'Sunny Los Angeles' has been anything but, the last few months. I have a number of things I've been planning on retrobrighting once the weather picked up again, so I should give this a try. I do appreciate the quality of your blog posts.
 
I'm thinking about my old EPROM eraser with the germicidal fluorescent tube in it. It's got years of wear and the UV has turned the gray plastic interior brown--sort of a reverse retr0brite.

Similarly, I've had gear that stood near a window for years and the side facing the window is yellow-brown.

It's a puzzle. :)
Yes, I think there are plastics and there are plastics. I had a printer in my office that yellowed to the extreme. Never ever saw direct sunlight. Wasn't even near a window!

Tez
 
Interesting. We have a lot of sun here in FL so I may try this with a Leading Technology EGA CRT I acquired recently.
 
Forgot to try this out. Will need to try again soon. We are having a lot of sun and a drought to boot due to persistent high pressure over Miami metro.
 
What about a "grid" of improvised lenses to amplify the light? Just don't melt your case :)

I've said this before. And here I am saying it again. I once put a warm mug of coffee on top of a Tandy 2000 case. And it left a white ring for a bit. This needs to be explored.

Also try rainwater. No loss of that in the Uk.
 
I've also heard of people whitening plastic by soaking it in heated peroxide (no sunlight).

There really needs to be some real science done on this. Anyone got a huge stockpile of yellowed plastic :p
 
It does work well on some things and not others. It's really the same as "retrobrite" without the accelerated chemical bleaching process.

Peroxide = bleach
Sun = bleach

Some plastic responds to some of these better than others. If the sun gets you where you are happy with it, it is nice because it is the slowest and least destructive way to bleach the surface.
 
I consider this one kind of a failure, even though some may like the very bright keys. I let them sit too long in 3% peroxide in the sun (2 days) and they bleached.

They started very yellow/orange. But they are supposed to be beige, not white. Now it doesn't match the case anymore. :(

There is some blooming/streaks on some keys and especially the space bar, but it is not terrible. It actually seemed to get better once they dried out. If you want an unnaturally white keyboard, you can do it...

I normally do this with the sun only in recent times, because I like the natural colors and H2O2 can be a pain. However, the sun is not out much in my area this time of the year, and I didn't want to wait until next Summer.
 

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Anyone know if it's UVB or UVC that's the active agent? The reason is that for the current plague, I constructed a nice (ca 2 cu. ft.) box with a couple of 35 watt UVC lamps in it for sterilization. I wonder if there's an alternative use for the thing.
 
Not sure that hydrogen peroxide is going to be effective in direct sunlight for more then a few hours since it will rapidly turn into water. Direct sunlight on plastics might whiten them a bit but it also damages the plastics which will make them brittle and yellow again anyway.

There isn't a single process for whitening plastics because of all the different types of plastics used over time and all the different chemicals used in making them like mold release agents, UV inhibitors, pigments, etc.

Look at something like a Commodore 64 that was made for a long time and had tons of batches of plastics made from different suppliers over that time.
 
Anyone know if it's UVB or UVC that's the active agent? The reason is that for the current plague, I constructed a nice (ca 2 cu. ft.) box with a couple of 35 watt UVC lamps in it for sterilization. I wonder if there's an alternative use for the thing.
I would think UVC is precluded from being the active agent in sun bleaching - doesn't the ozone layer/atmosphere absorb practically all UVC?
 
Retrobrighting, or leaving stuff out in the sun to bleach, not only delays the inevitable but makes the plastic more brittle.

I had a recent discussion about this with an old high school classmate who works professionally in a chemistry field. I didn't understand the styrene-acrylonitrile copolymer details that much, although I think I understand that SAN is the "yellow" component, and it is bonded with polybutadiene chains to make a better plastic because each on their own isn't as useful a substance. The crux of the discussion was this: Retrobrite/sunbrite practices (heat, light) expose the plastic to free radicals to un-bind SAN from PB. When SAN goes away, so does the yellow color -- but now you're left with only PB, which is weaker and more brittle without SAN. Not only will yellowing come back as new SAN that is now exposed start yellowing, but constant repeating of the process means you've removed the element from the plastic that binded with PB to make it stronger. So eventually, you'll get permanent yellowing *and* brittle plastic.

When I asked her if there was anything that could be done, her advice was "not really" and suggested painting the plastic, as paint is easier to maintain. :-(

We all desperately want a process to un-yellow plastic, but our choices are essentially these:

  • retrobright every 3-5 years, until the plastic crumbles or shatters (hope you have lots of spares)
  • paint the exterior of the pieces
  • purchase NIB items and keep them out of heat and light until the time comes to exhibit them
In my personal opinion, leaving stuff outside to bleach in the sun is one of the worst things we should be doing. Depending on the type of plastic and additives, you could actually accelerate the yellowing process instead of "reversing" it.
 
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