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Gotek adapter for Full Height Drives (5.25")

I finally got that one installed in my Osborne 1, so thought I'd show the pics of how it looks with the flip cover both down and up...

IMG_20230521_092233 (Small).jpg
IMG_20230521_092252 (Small).jpg

This is the non-painted one... Just a straight print finish. Even so. it fits well with the aesthetics of the drive bay, and matches close enough to the other drive in look and feel, even if it has a different finish.

The display is always visible, showing which disk is selected, and the latch is simply flipped up to access the selection dial and the USB slot and Buttons.
 
I may end up doing this for my osborne and kaypro's at some point, i like the way it looks and closes up. Maybe I missed it, but did you post the STL's for this anywhere?
 
Just sent them through - I'm still developing it, so here's the beta ( as pictured ) -

Let me know how you go and if you have any suggestions or recommendations.

Regards
David
 
What are your slicer settings? I have used Cura 5.0 and Prusa slicer and the first three prints fail in the exact same way. The supports fail at the bottom the two curved "half moon" shaped parts on the back of the "final drive 4.stl" file.

IMG_20230904_082614638.jpg

I have tried both regular and tree supports in cura, also tree and the other two supports in Prusa slicer with the same issue. Using ESun PLA+. I ordered some MatterHackers Build quality PLA since I have heard good things about it and I just about used all of my ESun in black.


The only way I could print where those two areas print ok is on the side but there are so many supports that its a pain to remove them.

This was printed on its side with fuzzy skin.
IMG_20230904_082517974.jpg

It looks ok on the front but the fuzzy skin really messes up the finish and clearance around the latch and it will not work without a ton of sanding.

Back side.

IMG_20230904_082624312.jpg


So my big observation is that fuzzy skin is a waste of time until the slicer can specify the faces you want without printing it everywhere else.

Also fuzzy skin and supports really do not work very well together since its such a pain to clean up.

Next one will be smooth and I'll just use textured paint of some kind.
 
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I did get one printed by surface scan and the design is great but I wasn't really happy with the finish of the print (think I chose the wrong material)

One major point is, I can't use it because it doesn't have side mountings which a TRS-80 model 3 three needs so I will save it for something else :)
 
I did get one printed by surface scan and the design is great but I wasn't really happy with the finish of the print (think I chose the wrong material)

One major point is, I can't use it because it doesn't have side mountings which a TRS-80 model 3 three needs so I will save it for something else :)

If you need one with side mountings, just let me know and I'll add them in and send it through. It's not difficult to add ( the original base model had them, and I removed them to save plastic ) - Also let me know if you have any requirements around depth there as some require the full sized "tray" to mount.

I should be able to find a way to add side mounts without increasing the volume ( and hence, the cost if printed commercially, where they usually rely on a volume to calculate the charge ).
 
So my big observation is that fuzzy skin is a waste of time until the slicer can specify the faces you want without printing it everywhere else.

Also fuzzy skin and supports really do not work very well together since its such a pain to clean up.

Next one will be smooth and I'll just use textured paint of some kind.

The fuzzy looks kind of interesting... I can separate the facia and the other components, but that won't help with the latch.

The newer version doesn't have the overhangs - I've moved them to the Gotek bracket. I'll get up a new set of STLs.
 
The fuzzy looks kind of interesting... I can separate the facia and the other components, but that won't help with the latch.

The newer version doesn't have the overhangs - I've moved them to the Gotek bracket. I'll get up a new set of STLs.


Thanks!!

That should really help with printing.
 
I mentioned to Cj7 in another message, but I have used plastidip and truck bed liner paint to get a good texture. the nice thing about plastidip is you can peel if off and start over (have to apply a few coats).
 
The picture doesn't show it well, but I've got what I think is appropriate texture from the Prusa bed plate.
Maybe this picture is better.

IMG_0681_2023-08-26.jpg
 
that is a great looking design! I like the dual units!

I've recently switched to resin printers and I love them. So easy. But I haven't even explored texturing with resin, or if it's even an option.
 
Texture is a tough challenge. Also, the ABS (and maybe the other plastics? ) scratch up easily and it shows where the original textured patterns hid any damage quite well.

Also, you only want to apply the pattern to specific faces.

I have a feeling the best solution will be a combination of surface texture and some kind of paint combination we've yet to find.
 
I just started another print using Atomic Filaments CF-PETG, pricey but prints really nice, and it gives a slightly rough texture because of the carbon fiber.
 
And the print failed Sunday, the supports in the bottom of the floppy slot just did not stick to the layers below it.

Ended up printing a plain floppy adapter just to keep this project going forward.
 
May I ask which slicer you used? I use Cura but had issues with the 5+ version in this same type of failure. Yet, the 4.12.1 sliced the same thing (a pumpkin for Halloween) just fine and printed fine. The 5+ version sliced with no issues, but on printing the supports on the teeth failed to print correctly. I never did find out why so dropped back to the 4.12.1 version for now.
 
May I ask which slicer you used? I use Cura but had issues with the 5+ version in this same type of failure. Yet, the 4.12.1 sliced the same thing (a pumpkin for Halloween) just fine and printed fine. The 5+ version sliced with no issues, but on printing the supports on the teeth failed to print correctly. I never did find out why so dropped back to the 4.12.1 version for now.
I'm using Cura 5.4.0 and Prusa Slicer 2.6 and all prints fail in the exact same place if it is printed right side up.

I did not think about going back to an older version.

The problem is the supports created with both stock and tweaked settings are not working correctly in both slicers if you print right side up. I might just end up printing it sideways without fuzzy texture since that actually worked.

I am also thinking about mounting a Gotek in a modded original floppy drive that is dead.
 
I'm in the market for a 3D printer and looking at the flashforge adventurer 5M pro. I like that it looks as if I could print in Carbon reinforced filament and nylon for strong functional parts as the nozzle temperature can go high enough as well as more normal filaments.

Any other recommendations ?
 
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