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New England NOS Green 753 Laptop

Covers: Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island and Maine.
I'm embarrassed to admit the loss of internet was a tripped ground fault outlet that I missed was tripped. The wall wart adapter for the router hid the outlet's LED from me and I thought the loss was due to a down FIOS signal somewhere external to the house. That ground fault circuit hasn't tripped in the dozen years we've been here and all of our neighborhood utilities are underground, but not so for out on the main road. Our FIOS ONT box was lit up, running on battery it turns out and so I missed the tripped outlet in the morning when I first looked into it and didn't figure it out until much later in the day.
 
DeltaDon said:
Okay, so far I've dug out four Green 753 batteries. All are NiMh and one is a 3,000ma/hr Panasonic mfgr. with battery pus along one side (I'll assume a split case), three are 3,500 maHr from Sanyo. One has a split case and a little bit of pus. Several have green on the contacts - i didn't check which ones. All are free in a first come first choice in AS-IS non-working condition for just the cost of shipping. I'm not willing to attempt to charge any of them in my working Green 753. If I am shipping a package with parts or a laptop I will add a battery to a pending order for just the extra shipping cost.

I assume the following want one:

3lectric
jknightandkarr
ST251
Click to expand...
Yep, that's correct
 
DeltaDon said:
I'm embarrassed to admit the loss of internet was a tripped ground fault outlet that I missed was tripped. The wall wart adapter for the router hid the outlet's LED from me and I thought the loss was due to a down FIOS signal somewhere external to the house. That ground fault circuit hasn't tripped in the dozen years we've been here and all of our neighborhood utilities are underground, but not so for out on the main road. Our FIOS ONT box was lit up, running on battery it turns out and so I missed the tripped outlet in the morning when I first looked into it and didn't figure it out until much later in the day.
Click to expand...
Sometimes those things are a pain, others a lifesaver.
 
jknightandkarr said:
And that's the problem, unknown... If one COULD be found, I could remake them with my 3d printer and figure out whats on the inside, but only if I had one.
Click to expand...
If you end up doing that I would be willing to buy one or two off of you. Just the cases, circuitry, and connector would suffice as well. Keep me in the loop.
 
ST251 said:
Quick question - does anyone have any leads on a potential source of main batteries for these? I'm interested in buying one but would hope to find a battery, even one I would have to rebuild
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I found this Amazon link but it is currently unavailable. I wish we could figure out who the manufacturer was and persuade them to make a couple more…

GVC Green 753 Battery https://a.co/d/1uhjUzd
 
Says the introduction date was 2010 - I'll bet it's been a decade since they've been in stock. I've seen a lot of "dead" listings like that on Amazon.
 
3lectr1c said:
That's just how it is for most of these old ODM laptops. I don't think there was a single photo of the laptop itself besides for eBay listings, which are temporary and will eventually vanish, before DeltaDon reignited some interest in these.

(well actually, just remembered, there was here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/vintagecomputing/comments/e7ueot
)
Click to expand...
I found a non ebay auction with photos, but thats all i have found.
 
On the issue with the internal LCD not starting on the first boot - I do think it's the CMOS battery. I just removed the one from my G753, and it did that same thing again. The battery was working, but I just do not trust it not to start leaking after 28 years, so I clipped it out. I'll probably replace it, because having to hook up an external monitor on each boot to get it started is a bit of a pain. I know DeltaDon has NOS ones, but I think I'm going to find one that is was recently manufactured so I won't have to worry about it leaking prematurely.
 
Not bad idea. I was concidering thinking of taking mine appart and checking caps just in case while waiting for update on a battery.
 
Let me know what you find in regards to caps. I don’t want to take mine apart because I’d end up breaking a bunch of clips just do to how brittle these get - mine’s staying in one piece unless it breaks since it’s new!
 
If it's anything like the Green751 that I just tore-down, the palmrest surround might come off with the display as a unit... Not sure though. @DeltaDon used to have the service manual but I think he no longer does. I'd guess that he still remembers how to get them apart though?
 
Taking a Green 753 apart is easy, but there's a plastic piece (maybe two) that will break 99% of the time.

More less as follows.

Remove power (and battery if working ones are ever made). Then remove the hinge covers by sliding left and right depending upon side. Remove the hard drive caddy. Slide the keyboard retainers and remove the keyboard. Be extremely careful to not break the ribbon cable retainer latch on the motherboard's connector. Remove the metal plate under the keyboard. Remove the screws that were under the hinge covers. Close the LCD lid and flip the laptop upside down and remove the screws around the edges of the lower case. The covers on the bottom do not need to be removed. IIRC, there's also one screw in the rear connector opening that has to be removed too. Now the problem area. You've removed the two top screws holding the LCD assembly to the laptop plus the two on the bottom so the LCD panel is only retained by the cables. To get to the cables you need to CAREFULLY pry up the back of center cover that covers the small status LCD. It should release if you pry with a spudger. Don't rip it off. The front of this cover has two tiny plastic ears that slot into the upper case and will break off unless the Gods shine upon you. But try to release the front of the cover and maybe you'll get lucky. Move the LCD assembly as necessary to get the cover off. Also, once the cover is off you'll see the video adapter/On-Off power board. It is held in place with four screws. Remove these screws and lift the board up and the LCD lid and video board came be removed as one assembly. No need to disconnect the cables to the LCD. Now all the screws are removed except for two in the keyboard opening. One has a ground wire attached. Remove them. Gently lift the upper case from the back and observe any wires plugged into the motherboard that need to be disconnected. Once the upper case is off there's several screws and standoffs holding the CD-ROM drive in place, the floppy drive/PCMCIA board in place. Two screws in the PCMCIA slot assembly need to come out too. They all come out with little effort and some ribbon cable disconnecting. There's the two (I think) standoffs plus a couple of more screws that hold the motherboard in place. Watch that the IR sensor that's mounted on a plug-in tiny board (above the power jack) doesn't get bent (or just pull it up and out of it's connector) You've now turned the Green 753 into a pile of parts. The CD-ROM drives are Teac 6x or 8x depending upon mfr. date, I guess. They are not Atapi connector compatible. Energy Plus (Fedco Electronics) should be able to supply new CMOS batteries. Or they could a decade ago when I last delt with them for battery rebuilding. Notice that there's about 6 or seven different screw types and they need to go back in the correct places. So make a list as you disassemble the laptop. I also suggest take lots of photos as you proceed so you can put it back together.

I do not have replacement IR windows that like to fall out of the lower case if you toss it around. I may have some upper and lower case pieces, but used, not NOS. I also do not have hard drive caddies. I do not have any keyboards. I do not have spare retainer latches for the keyboard connector if you break the fragile latch. Maybe someone can 3D print them? I do not have new covers that go over the status LCD and if the ears are broken on the cover you will need RTV to hold it in place. I don't have LCD plastics or LCD's. Or LCD lid latches. I may have one or two replacement LCD inverter boards, but try to rebuild your old one since they are rare. The lid plastic require extremely gentle persuasion if you have to open the lid. There's a screw behind each of the lower rubber plugs near the hinge and then it's just a matter of how gentle you can be at prying things apart. All the plastics are 30+ years old. Fragile is the word.

Opening the LCD lid assembly will result in cracked plastic or at least broken tabs. So unless you like gluing stuff don't do it! The "normal" issues with a Green 753 are broken tabs on the upper case that hold the hinge covers in place. (RTV the covers back on), a broken latch on the LCD assembly. Sorry, no new ones available. Broken lid plastics at the hinges due to weak plastics and/or too tight hinges. Hinge tightness can be adjusted with the nut on the hinge.
 
Do you mind if I quote this and add it to the Green753 pages on my site? Would be very helpful!
 
If I end up getting a used one I will - I'm not risking those tabs though. Will add it with a disclaimer :)
 
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