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Pet video board 320064-02 bad

Ilpaninaro,

I have seen something else on your board photo. It might be that you have reversed the base and collector wires of Q11. I have attached photos with the transistor pin outs. Its always hard to tell with a photo. But it could explain why you measured the 14V on one side of C16. So please double check Q11 is correctly fitted.
 

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From the photo, it looks like your monitor has the TIP-55A Horizontal output transistor, so when you are replacing it, it will be easier to use the same one, rather than the MJE13006 which is physically smaller.

And also Paninero should be aware of Note 6 on the schematic about using L3 or R50 at the base-emitter of Q14 depending on the transistor used.
 
On the resistor, most any size wattage is fine 1/4W is typically easy to find and cheap. I'd also like a 100K resistor as well. We are going to check the capacitors. We can't easily check the ESR ( Effective Series Resistance ) but we can check to see if they are dried out. I'm relatively sure your meter has a typical 1M input resistance. We will use that to make crude measurements of the filter capacitors that are suspicious for being out of tolerance ( I wish you'd got the resistor when I'd asked for it. It wasn't an idle request ).
We will be measuring the time constant of the capacitors. Any that are way off will need to be replaced.
To do this, we'll need to remove them from the board. Electrolytics are polarized. If we apply the voltage to them backwards, it will quickly destroy them ( If using a power supply it will be a small explosion ). Please be careful to observe the polarity of the capacitors when testing and installing back on the board. It looks as though the capacitors are what is called radial lead ( upright can types ). Most of these mark the negative side by a stripe with a dash on it. A few are known to mark the positive side, also with a stripe, down the side, but a + sign instead. Mark the board with the polarity indicator as we do these so that there is no mistake them when reinstalling them.
We have two that we can test right away with the meter you have, using the 5V of the logic board. While testing these, we should disconnect the power transformer from the analog video board so we don't have to worry about it. I believe, from some pictures, the transformer can be disconnected with a connector.
The capacitors C3 and C13 can be tested with the meter and the 5V. So lets do that while we wait for other stuff to come in.
What we'll be doing is measuring how fast the capacitors charge up. The typical specification of these is +20% -10%. So for C3 and C13 that is suppose to be a 47uf, normal range is about 56uf down to 42uf. Anything much under 40uf and we'll want to replace it. These can also be excessively leaky as well. If they seem to be taking a really long time to charge, this would indicate that they are excessively leaky. In normal use, they do leak a tiny amount but excess leakage is an issue.
We'll use the calculated time constants for these. Remove the capacitors one at a time and test them.
Here is a table of time constants. These are to .63*V for one time constant but we will use 1/2 voltage time of 0.7 time constants for simplicity.
If we use 5V, that means the voltage will be 2.5V. Since we are going to connect the meter in series with the capacitor, it will be 2.5V on the meter and 2.5V on the capacitor ( 2.5 + 2.5 = 5 ).
Here is the table we'll work with:

Time to 1/2 voltage of 2.5V using 5V source.
Capacitance, resistance, minimum time, maximum time
47uf, 1Meg( meter ), 30sec, 36sec
470uf, 90K ( 100K parallel to meter ), 27sec, 32sec
220uf, 90k, 12.5sec, 16sec
4700uf, 10K, 30sec, 36sec ( we'll put the resistor in parallel with the meter again but the error is small enough that we can ignore it )

This will be done always with the meter and paralleled resistor in series with the capacitor. The negative end of the capacitor connected to the logic ground and the other end of the meter/resistor to the +5V. We can start the timing by momentarily shorting across the capacitor. The meter will then start measure 5V. As the capacitor charges, the meter's voltage will gradually drop to 2.5V ( we hope ). When it reaches 2.5V, we'll note the time by watching a clock.
There are a number of smaller capacitors that we will not be able to measure this way. If we see significant failures on these bigger capacitors it may be worth replacing them as well.
Anyway, we can do the 47uf caps while waiting on other parts. There are some test we can do on Q11 to Q13 but lets deal with the capacitors first.
Anything you are not sure about, ask questions.
Dwight
 
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One thing I have noticed about the voltage regulator is that both the rivet and the bolt has fibre washers on them - so they can't be making good contact with the GND copper...
I think that's just copper showing through fairly large holes in the mask.

You stated that the middle pin was cut-off the VR1 voltage regulator at one point and one of Dwight's tests was to connect the middle pin (via a wire) to GND.
If it was really VR1 that's missing the centre pin then yes, definitely add a separate ground.

I wonder what that black wire is all about, going from ground to ground; not that it's relevant at this point but that brightness control could use a little more solder...
 
I think that's just copper showing through fairly large holes in the mask.


If it was really VR1 that's missing the centre pin then yes, definitely add a separate ground.

I wonder what that black wire is all about, going from ground to ground; not that it's relevant at this point but that brightness control could use a little more solder...

If you look at the traces, you'll see that the place that the heat sink is attached to is an island. The black jumper connects it to the ground. I don't like using the package heat sink as the connection as I've seen corrosion cause that path to fail, even with a tight screw ( that do tend to loosen with heat and age ). You'll notice I had him add a wire to the center lead. Why it had to be a black insulated wire, I don't know. Other locations that needed to be connected got plain jumpers?? Maybe it is a thicker wire??
Dwight
 
Oops, I was getting confused on the layout my self. I see what you mean. The trace is continuous. Maybe it was just to reduce the inductance or something?? The "Black Wire" is next to Q14, not the regulator.
Dwight
 
If you look at the traces, you'll see that the place that the heat sink is attached to is an island. The black jumper connects it to the ground. I don't like using the package heat sink as the connection as I've seen corrosion cause that path to fail, even with a tight screw ( that do tend to loosen with heat and age ). You'll notice I had him add a wire to the center lead. Why it had to be a black insulated wire, I don't know. Other locations that needed to be connected got plain jumpers?? Maybe it is a thicker wire??
Dwight

Sorry guys but im too confuse now...i ve decided to sell Pet...You re very kind but i can t found solution in this way :(
Thanks so much for your time!
I hope that who buy this Pet ill can repair easy!
 
Sorry guys but im too confuse now...i ve decided to sell Pet...You re very kind but i can t found solution in this way :(
Thanks so much for your time!
I hope that who buy this Pet ill can repair easy!
That's too bad, and I was really looking forward to the 14V mystery being solved, but I don't blame you.

I think Frank gave up a while ago but he's also in Italy. He's probably not close to you but it might be worth while to scroll back to the early posts and get in touch with him in case he can help you or the PETs new owner get it working.

Good luck; its certainly been interesting!
 
I'm a bit of a die hard on such repair but I do respect OP's choice. While we were making progress, there were a couple of items of risk. Both the coupling transformer and the flyback transformer were of unknown condition. The board exhibited moisture damage. This is always a potential problem for the fly back transformer. The OP had both lack of experience and equipment. This wasn't a casual repair. There are a number of issue to be resolved. I do wish that I'd gotten involve earlier.
Dwight
 
It is difficult to guide an inexperienced person through a repair by remote control where there are a few issues to solve and a paucity of test equipment.

More to the point, where there is a lack of familiarity with electronic circuit design and circuit concepts.

So a problem that could take seconds or minutes to resolve by an experienced technician could take weeks to resolve, with suggestions and test results going backward & forward and ambiguities thrown into the mix. Still, at least we tried to help the OP, that is the main thing.

Probably the next technician to get it will recap it & get the power supply normal, repair any remaining damage in the Q11 to Q14 pathway, get the drive signals from the computer correct and it will be up and running in short order.
 
Hi guys,
I am very happy to be part of this forum, you have helped me a lot and I have learned many things ...
Unfortunately we found a fault that was difficult to solve at a distance and I have little experience and I'm missing an oscilloscope.
However today I got another broken pet, a 3016 that I bought with a friend .... I hope it is easier to repair .... it turns on and the monitor is full of random green characters .... maybe one rom or a video ram ....;)
For now, I really thank everyone for the time spent!
 
Yes, a much easier project. There are a few other common failure points but most are within simple logic probe checks. RAM and ROM are easiest diagnosed with a scope but can be done with swapping from other known good chips. There is quite a bit of information on finding them on this MB.
Dwight
 
Yes, a much easier project. There are a few other common failure points but most are within simple logic probe checks. RAM and ROM are easiest diagnosed with a scope but can be done with swapping from other known good chips. There is quite a bit of information on finding them on this MB.
Dwight
I should probably start a new thread, but speaking of...

As usual, when I dug out the 2001s in case we needed to compare some voltages or resistances they were both dead although they'd been working when they were put away; looks like I'll be doing some troubleshooting myself, on those and three or four 40/80 universal boards.

So, Daver, Davem and Eudimorphodon: what are the latest versions of your diagnostic ROMs and where can I download the images?

TIA,

m
 
Thanks, DaveM and thanks, DaveR!

As I recall, it will check low RAM and if it trustworthy, it will go on to perform a checksum of ROMs and let you exercise the keyboard for response. It will init the CRT controller for the 'universal' boards.

Great work done by daver2 to extend the original work of 'E'.
 
Yeah, it's awesome that my brain-dead little idea (and the atrocious code I wrote as my first ever 6502 assembly project) has been evolved to do so much more. That it worked at all is a testament to just what a simple little machine the original PET variants are.

(It still does make me a little proud that the original ended up being a useful part of the PET ressurector's toolkit.)
 
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